Choosing the Perfect Boat for Nature Photography

Aluminum Hulled Boat Used on my Photo Tours

Photographing nature in Southern Louisiana often means shooting from a boat. Previously, I discussed techniques for shooting in a boat. For this post, I'm talking about what type of boat to use in the swamp. Considerations include;

1. The ability to get into areas with shallow water
2. How quiet the boat is, mainly when photographing wildlife
3. What your point of view is, you want to be low for some subjects, high for others
4. The stability of the boat you don't want to fall in
5. Your ability to Photograph without the boat or anyone in the boat obscuring the view
6. You want to be able to transport the boat to the shooting location easily
7. The ability to operate the boat while you also photograph with the camera?
8. Cost

I include the following types of boats in this post:

1. Skiffs
2. Mud Boats
3. Airboats
4. Canoes
5. Kayaks
6. Perogues

Motor Powered Boats

Skiffs

I've been working with the folks at The Atchafalaya Experience since 2003. They use aluminum-hulled boats with outboard motors and a center console for steering and control. These boats get us into fairly tight places with several feet of water. They sit moderately low on the water so you can get a relatively low point of view, often ideal for landscapes and suitable for birds wading in the water. They are rugged and extremely safe. They are stable enough for you to stand so you can achieve a higher point of view for birds perched in trees or nesting on a treetop. They are relatively quiet, allowing reasonably close access to birds without stressing them. They can quickly cover a large area allowing you to shoot at multiple locations.

Ideal when multiple photographers are photographing and with people with limited experience operating a smaller boat that requires paddling.

Downsides include obscured vision with multiple people in the boat, vibration from the motor, difficulty transporting and launching the boat, and cases where you want to have a point of view at water level. This type of boat is best when the captain is not photographing.

Mud Boats

Gator Tail Mud Boat on the way to Cow Island Lake

Mud boats are similar to skiffs, except that they have an outboard air-cooled engine allowing them to traverse areas of little or no water. As the best swampy areas to photograph are in shallow waters, this can prove a significant advantage. My friends at Atchafalaya Experience used this type of boat for several years. However, they proved to be unreliable, and for wildlife photography, their propensity to backfire when restarting the engine proved to be problematic. These boats are as stable as the skiffs with the same issues with transporting and launching. As with the skiff, you need a dedicated captain, who is not photographing.

Airboats

A flat bottomed boat fitted with a large automotive engine and an aircraft propeller. It does not require water and can go over swampy areas. Very noisy and vibration prone. Hearing protection usually needed when in use. Wildlife doesn't tolerate the noise, and the vibrations make photography very difficult. The point of view is high, and there is little ability to move about in the boat when in use. The only practical function is to drop off photographers in remote locations not reachable in any other way. A skilled, dedicated captain is required.

Human Powered Boats

Perogues

The Perogue is the classic cajun boat used for fishing and trapping in the swamp. Originally a dugout made from a cypress tree, the most common form of it is now handmade from 1/4 inch marine or exterior plywood. Classically the boat is push polled with the person standing in the Perogue, but many people sit and paddle with a single-headed paddle. Flat bottomed, it has a very shallow draft and can operate in very shallow water. It is typically less stable than a canoe, but more stable than a Kayak. I've never photographed from a Perogue; however, many years ago, my wife and I paddled in Bayou Dularge south of Houma in one built by her Grandfather. Unfortunately, it had developed a leak, and the two of us slowly sank. I think of this when I consider photographing from one. A Perogue may be a good option for swamp photography. Perogues are inexpensive if you're able to construct it yourself, stable, quiet in the water, reasonably simple to transport, and low in the water. Like all human-powered boats, you're not able to move from one area to the next rapidly, so you need to pick your location carefully. Also, being small, you're limited to shallow protected waters; you don't want to be out in rough weather.

Kayaks

Kayaks are the modern replacement for the Perogue. Lighter and available at low cost, they don't require construction. They ride lower in the water than the Perogue so they may offer a better point of view. I haven't photographed from one, but know many who have. They represent an easy, inexpensive way to get on the water. Again, you need to pick your location, you can't quickly paddle across and a large body of water. They are quiet, easy to transport, and you can launch nearly anywhere. Typically they are paddled with a double-headed paddle, but foot-powered kayaks are available, which would leave your hands free to photograph, and you are less likely to splash water on the equipment.

Canoes

A Canoe may also be an excellent way to photograph on the water. Heavier than either the Perogue or the Kayak, they are more stable, but they are harder to transport or launch. Like the Perogue and Kayak, they are quiet and have a shallow draft. Typically they are paddled with a single-headed paddle, a disadvantage over the Kayak as it is more likely to splash water on equipment. Like the other human-powered boats, moving quickly to another location is not possible.

I've relied on motor-powered boats for the 19 years I've been doing photography in Louisiana. Over the next year, I hope to explore one or more of the human-powered alternatives to allow me to get out more on the water.

Buying Bird Photography Equipment on a Budget

White Ibis in Breeding Plumage Millers Lake - Taken with Nikon D2X and Nikkor 300 AFS F/4 with TC-14e Teleconverter

This article is an update to my 2015 article, with much of it duplicated here. The good news is that with the switch by major camera manufacturers to mirrorless cameras with new lens mounts, there are bargains available for excellent systems. It is now possible to purchase a good starter system for approximately $1500, about $500 less than five years ago when I wrote the original article. The camera bodies now have more resolution, a faster frame rate, and are lower in high iso noise.

The equipment for bird photography can be costly. Part of this is the nature of the business, photographing small moving objects requires long telephoto lenses and effective autofocus systems Beginning bird photographers would be well served with a good cropped sensor camera body and 400 mm f/5.6 lens or a 300 mm f/4 lens with a 1.4x teleconverter. By applying several common-sense strategies, you can acquire such a system at a reduced cost. For Nikon, currently available suitable camera bodies are the D7200 and the D500, for Canon, the similar camera bodies are the EOS 7D Mark II and the EOS 7D Mark III.

Strategies for Reducing Equipment Costs

There are several strategies for reducing the cost of such a system. These include:

1.    Buying Refurbished Equipment
2.    Buying Last Years Model
3.    Buying Used    
4.    Buying Grey Market
5.    Renting

Buying Refurbished Equipment

The two major camera system manufacturers used in bird photography, Nikon and Canon, both offer equipment that has been returned and then repaired and resold as refurbished equipment. I frequently use this strategy, and the savings are significant. Often the testing performed on refurbished equipment exceeds that done on new, I've purchased many camera bodies refurbished and numerous refurbished lenses, and I've never had a problem. However, one downside to this strategy is the length of the warranty, typically 90 days rather than the one year for new equipment, in some cases, a camera store will supplement the warranty with one of their own, but I'm not sure how well this works. I make sure I do a thorough job of testing any equipment purchased in this way as soon as I receive it to reduce the risk of a problem.

I have purchased refurbished equipment from Nikon directly, B&H, and Cameta Camera (Currently offline, not sure of their status).

For example, right now, Nikon USA has a refurbished D7200 699.96 and a D7500 for the same price, I'd choose the D7200 even though it's an older camera because it only has one card slot. Older, Nikon manual focus lenses aren't supported, if those things aren't relevant to you, the D7500 may be better as it shoots 8 FPS versus 6, and it has an articulating screen. A new D7500 is going for $899.99 on the same site.

Buying Last Years Model

Both Nikon and Canon have recently released mirrorless cameras, with significantly higher prices, and they probably don't handle flying birds as well as the DSLR's. For now, if you're looking for a budget system, I'd go with one of the DSLR's

The newer Canon 100-400 is $1799 at B&H, and the Nikon 300mm f/4 pf is $1996.55. While these are indeed very lovely lenses, for the budget-conscious, the older lenses are a better choice.

Buying used

Frequently when new equipment is released, people sell their older models to finance the latest camera equipment. This behavior is certainly correct now with the Nikon and Canon Mirrorless systems and with many people moving to Sony or Olympus Mirrorless systems. Looking at sources like KEH camera and eBay, you'll notice used camera equipment prices are much lower now. For example, I saw a used D500 on eBay for $845, which sells new for $1496.95. However, on eBay, if something looks too good to be true, it probably is. Check the seller ratings carefully and stick to one that has a high rating and a large number of sales. Usually, you're better off going to someone like KEH or the used department of B&H.

Buying Grey Market

Another strategy is buying "imported" or "Grey Market" equipment. Stores often purchase equipment outside of the country at a lower cost and then sell them in the US for less. The downside of this is that Nikon and Canon in this country will not honor the warranty or even service the equipment. I'm cautious not to buy any expensive Grey Market products. However, for low maintenance items, for example, a teleconverter, I would undoubtedly consider Grey Market if the price were right.

Renting equipment

One strategy for a one time equipment need, such as for an assignment or to do a photo tour, is to rent the equipment. Several good rental companies rent appropriate equipment. Two I'm familiar with are:

Lens Rentals Borrow Lenses

One caution is to be sure that you either have insurance or purchase their protection in case something goes wrong.

Camera Company Deals

Nikon and Canon are also running many specials discounting older cameras they still have in stock. If you're interested in a specific model, be sure and check that the used or refurbished camera or lens is really your best deal.

Conclusion

You can put together a good beginner's bird photography system with roughly equivalent Canon and Nikon equipment now for approximately $1500, roughly $500 less than five years ago, and have a better system.

What I do in the "off season"

As I write this, Southern Louisiana is in the grips of an unusual cold snap. Not the kind of weather I would go wandering around finding things in nature to photograph and certainly not the kind of weather I want to be out on the water. I would argue, however, now is the most important time for my photography and the success of the shooting season is dependent upon much of what I do now.

Here are some of the activities for the next several months:

Planning

At the beginning of the year I like to set my photography goals. What would I like to photograph? What can I improve upon? What trips would I like to make? I firmly believe in the mantra “Plan your Work and then Work your Plan”. So I spend an hour or so each week working on the plan. I try to get this in writing so I solidify it in my mind and break things down into steps. While things never really go as planned, getting this on paper helps move things in the right direction.

For example, this year I want to spend more time creating good landscape photographs and panoramic images. I’ll be looking for good opportunities to create these images in the off-season so I can focus on getting the photograph when the conditions are right. I also will set up the pano head and make sure I have the proper nodal point for each of the lenses I expect to use.

Maintaining Skills

In order to be at my best in the spring, I need to be photographing all winter. So I create some self assignments to keep at it even though most of the resulting images will go into the trash.

Some examples of self photo assignments:

1. Photograph a week with a single focal length and then the next week go to the opposite extreme.
2. Create one photograph a day from the backyard for a week.
3. Create one photograph a day of my cat or dog for a week.
4. Create 3 good macro shots.
5. Create a panoramic photograph of the front of my house.

I also make to sure to notice things on my walks with the dog and perhaps take a shot or two with my iPhone. I make it a point to pick up my cameras every day, even if I’m not photographing and go through the photo making process. I also try to take a camera with me on trips to the grocery store or shopping and take and few shots along the way. The key is practice, automatically connecting with my camera rather than needing to think through the technical aspects of shooting. See my article here.

Maintenance and Testing

During the winter months I do extensive testing of my equipment to make sure it is in the best condition for the spring photo season. I set each camera up and go through each of the lenses. I check for any potential problems with back or front focusing. I run a test on each autofocus lens with ReiKan FoCal that identifies the sharpest aperture, checking aperture in turn, generating a report for each. This identifies problems with my lenses. I also do an exposure test at each aperture for each of my lenses. Using this test this year I identifies two lenses with sticking apertures. I then either send the equipment in for repair, repair the problem myself or replace the problematic equipment. Finally I do a thorough cleaning of all the equipment and put things in their proper place.

New Equipment

Now is the time I like to purchase new equipment. During the active shooting season I don’t like to learn anything new. I prefer to have some time to get used to new camera bodies, lenses, computer software, etc. during the off season when I’m not under pressure to get the shot. Having gone through process of assessing the condition of my equipment and setting the goals for the shooting season, I can make intelligent choices concerning purchases I need to make.

Computer

This is also the time to make an assessment of the computing strategy and equipment needs. I check over things such as the amount of free storage on my computers, any potential problems with hard drives, etc. I run diagnostic software to find any hidden bugs. If I need to make any changes to my workflow, now is the time.

Study

Also I spend time with photography and wildlife textbooks and doing research on the web. I subscribe to Lynda.com and now is the time to learn new software and shooting techniques. I like to spend time looking at the work of other photographers on Web sites like 500px.com. It’s also the time to reread camera manuals and guides like those published by Thom Hogan for my camera bodies.

While this time of year is not when I make most of my best images, it really is an Important time for getting things set for the rest of the year.

Photo Tours

Space is still available for the 2015 Photo Tours, check it out here.